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   Author  Topic: My car is a POS *Update*  (Read 349 times)
kimmiedawn81
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My car is a POS *Update*
« on: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:30am »
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So, I was driving home from working out last night and I noticed that my car was getting foggy, but I had the defrost on, so I thought, well, it will get better soon, but it didn't, so I turned the defrost on higher and it didn't do anything, so I turned on the fan, the a/c, everything on as high as it would go....nothing.  Nothing works.  
 
It just rolled over 200,000 miles a few weeks back.  I've had so many problems with this car.  I have no money to get it fixed.  I am just so pissed off.
 
 
 
*Just got it fixed.  It was a fuse.  They wouldn't even let me pay.  Wow...that's a HUGE weight off of my shoulders.*
« Last Edit: Nov 16th, 2005, 1:26pm by kimmiedawn81 » IP Logged




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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #1 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:32am »
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on Nov 16th, 2005, 10:30am, kimmiedawn81 wrote:
So, I was driving home from working out last night and I noticed that my car was getting foggy, but I had the defrost on, so I thought, well, it will get better soon, but it didn't, so I turned the defrost on higher and it didn't do anything, so I turned on the fan, the a/c, everything on as high as it would go....nothing.  Nothing works.  
 
It just rolled over 200,000 miles a few weeks back.  I've had so many problems with this car.  I have no money to get it fixed.  I am just so pissed off.

 
Heater core.........
 
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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #2 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:34am »
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on Nov 16th, 2005, 10:32am, Racer1_NC wrote:

 
Heater core.........
 
Bill

If it was the heater core, my fan and stuff would still work.
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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #3 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:38am »
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on Nov 16th, 2005, 10:34am, kimmiedawn81 wrote:

If it was the heater core, my fan and stuff would still work.

 
Misunderstood your post. Switch, fuse, or fan motor to start. Easy to check.......fan motor not so easy to replace.
 
Bill
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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #4 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:40am »
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Yeah, I guess if it's gonna cost me a lot of money I'll just see if I can get a different car.  I'd be putting more money into it than what it's worth.
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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #5 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:40am »
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Yes everything still works BUT all it is doing is blowing ani-freeze all over your windshield because the heater core has a hole in it. Is there a funny smell in the car? if it's bad enough you can actually taste the ant-freeze if you lick your lips (not healthy) What kind of car is it?
 
(edit) I mi-understood also, sorry.
« Last Edit: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:42am by giffy76 » IP Logged
kimmiedawn81
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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #6 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:44am »
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No antifreeze leaking.  Not blowing at all.
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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #7 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 11:44am »
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Check the fuses, could be an easy fix, if not move all the controls, if still nothing give the dashboard a good hit. My car did the same thing, but it was a bad relay in the engine compartment. The Japs can't think to put relays under the dash where they will stay dry Undecided
 
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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #8 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 11:48am »
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We used to have a Dodge Intrepid that would do that from time to time.  The fix, according to the owners manual, was to disconnect the battery lead to the computer and let it sit for 5 minutes, then reconnect.
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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #9 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 12:20pm »
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With the amount of mileage you got on that bear...it could be either the fuse, relay, or the blower motor.  
 
Can you here the dampers moving when you move the knob?
 
If it is something expensive...get it at a junkyard...or go to "Parts to go" @ 866-226-8662 or 209-834-8201...they're cheap and will ship anywhere within the U.S. You don't want to buy something new, when you got 200 g's on the car.
« Last Edit: Nov 16th, 2005, 12:29pm by Jimmy_B. » IP Logged

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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #10 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 12:29pm »
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on Nov 16th, 2005, 11:48am, echo wrote:
We used to have a Dodge Intrepid that would do that from time to time.  The fix, according to the owners manual, was to disconnect the battery lead to the computer and let it sit for 5 minutes, then reconnect.  

 
Good advise.  Wink
 
This will also cure "hiccups" in EEC systems occasionally.
[EEC=Electronic Engine Control, the computer]
This disconnect from power source works in many
other electronic system situations too.
A re-set, if you will.
 
My  twocents
 
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Re: My car is a POS
« Reply #11 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 12:31pm »
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All Jap cars and some others won't clear the windshield if the AC is not working. Have someone check the AC compressor, most don't make it 200,000 miles. Older cars must be converted to the new freon plus a new compressor. 300.00 - 500.00 bucks.
 
Good luck, Lee
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Re: My car is a POS *Update*
« Reply #12 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 2:48pm »
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on Nov 16th, 2005, 10:30am, kimmiedawn81 wrote:

*Just got it fixed.  It was a fuse.  They wouldn't even let me pay.  Wow...that's a HUGE weight off of my shoulders.*

 
Great news, Fuses sometimes blow for no reason, I hope this is the case for you.
 
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Re: My car is a POS *Update*
« Reply #13 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 6:26pm »
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Not to brag or anything, but despite it's old age, mine still run like a charm....
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Re: My car is a POS *Update*
« Reply #14 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:27pm »
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Quote:
We used to have a Dodge Intrepid that would do that from time to time.  The fix, according to the owners manual, was to disconnect the battery lead to the computer and let it sit for 5 minutes, then reconnect.

Jesus. That's the same kind of shit we get every time we all tech support.
 
Charlie
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Re: My car is a POS *Update*
« Reply #15 on: Nov 16th, 2005, 10:29pm »
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on Nov 16th, 2005, 6:26pm, rextangle wrote:
Not to brag or anything, but despite it's old age, mine still run like a charm....

I am so jealous.   laugh
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Re: My car is a POS *Update*
« Reply #16 on: Nov 22nd, 2005, 11:16am »
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I love Studebakers, nice car.
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Re: My car is a POS *Update*
« Reply #17 on: Nov 22nd, 2005, 11:55am »
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If you check the fuses and find nothing wrong...
 
Given the mileage it could be a fuseable link - nothing more than a normal looking wire with a fuse point incorporated into it.  Fuseable links are typically located in the wiring harness just over the wheelwell located on the side of your battery.
 
Typically the fuseable links are left exposed and have either a noticable bulge or pinch point (you may need to remove some tape or plastic covering to see them).  If one has burned out it will be obvious from a slight burning of the wire casing and possibly burning/seperation in the wire at the bulge or pinch point.  A good repair manual for that make/model vehicle will point you directly to them and describe repair options.  
 
Easily fixed - make a small jumper wire of the same gauge as that listed on the original wire, cut the fused area from the vehicle wiring (1/2" to 1" ) and splice between the two wires with your jumper.  I recommend soldering but there are numerous cheap in-line connectors that you can use to make a solid connection.  Tape good and see what happens.  Age is a killer of fusable links and the dozen or so that I've repaired to date resolved the problem and had nothing to do with a short in the vehicle wiring.      
 
Hope this helps.
 
Tom  
« Last Edit: Nov 22nd, 2005, 11:56am by burnt-toast » IP Logged

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